Weaving Techniques

Weaving Techniques || Adding Faux Warp Fringe

Faux Warp Fringe | The Weaving LoomAs promised I have another weaving concept to share with you from this blue organic weave I made. If you’ve been reading my posts a lot, you may have noticed that I usually weave upside down, or top to bottom. I like working in this way because I feel like it gives me more freedom to decide on what fringe I want after I have completed the main body of my weave. That doesn’t mean everyone has to weave in this way, if you like to start with the fringe and work your way up, then do it!

Faux Warp Fringe | The Weaving LoomWhile weaving this weave my intention was to have a simple warp thread fringe, which means I would just secure my weave with the hem stitch and then let my warp threads hang long under my weave. However, when I finished my weave, I liked it better with the bottom of the weave remaining the part that was facing me. This was a problem, because as you can see if this picture below I only had maybe 2 inches of warp thread, and I wanted really long warp threads hanging down. Here is how I fixed my issue:

step 1| I wove a hem stitch to secure my weave on top and bottom.

Faux Warp Fringe | The Weaving Loomstep 2| I figured out the length that I wanted my warp fringe to be, then cut warp threads to twice that length. I then pulled down my hem stitch and rya knotted one warp thread per hem stitch. I made the rya knots on the back of the weave, because the front part of the rya knot shows more and I wanted this to be almost invisible.

Faux Warp Fringe | The Weaving Loomstep 3| I pulled the rya knot tails down through the hem stitch weave with my tapestry needle, so that they aligned with the true warp threads. And then pushed my hem stitch tight against the rest of the weave, doing my best to hide my warp thread rya knots.

step 4| Next I cut the weave off the loom, you can see how I finished and hung the top here. On the bottom, I took the cut warp threads and pulled them through the back of the weave. Leaving the rya knot fake warp threads hang.

Faux Warp Fringe | The Weaving Loomstep 5| I then tied the rya knot warp threads in a knot right under the hem stitch to make sure they were secure. This is not a completely necessary step since the weave would have held, but I wanted to tie it off.

step 6| on the back side of the weave, I then tied together four of the true warp threads with a knot and then trimmed the edges. This completely finished off the bottom of my weave.

This technique can work, if you’re weaving on a smaller loom, that wouldn’t leave you with a lot of extra warp threads. This is also useful if you want a warp fringe that is a different color then the warp threads you wove on.

Have you tried a warp fringe on your weaves before? What do you think of the look? Do you prefer a fuller fringe on weaves? I really like a lot of fringe on weaves, but for this weave, it just would have taken away from the design so the simple fringe fits it better.

Happy Weaving!

Kate

||Shop this post||

Lily Sugar’n Cream Solids Yarn in White

Various colored threads from Knit Picks

Maysville Cotton Warp in White

Melissa & Doug Weaving Loom

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4 Comments

  • Reply
    Amanda
    October 22, 2015 at 8:18 pm

    Very informative! I was wondering how to do this, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge 🙂 as for fringe, I agree that both a full fringe or a simple fringe can be attractive, just depends on the piece. Also, I weave upside down too. This helps me decide what to do with the fringe based on how the weaving comes out – since for me it so often comes out nothing like planned once I get started

    xo Amanda

    • Reply
      Kate
      October 22, 2015 at 8:42 pm

      Hey Amanda!! Yay, I’m glad I could help you. I’m absolutely the same as you, I start with an idea in my head and then all the sudden my weave is not even close, but I’ll just go with it. So I also need space to add whatever fringe might fit in the end. Feel free to ask me a question whenever, I might not know the answer but I like to experiment to find out 😀 You’re the best!! xx

  • Reply
    Brita
    October 26, 2015 at 5:51 pm

    Hi! Love the blog, thanks for sharing!

    I tried recently to do a more organic pattern like this and love the idea but couldn’t figure out how to make it work out. When I tried to make the colors “meet” at some of the tips of the organic shape, I couldn’t get the over/under to line up on the following rows. Does yours always line up exactly? Do you bring the colors in from the edge and have them “meet”, or do you bring the new colored yarn in from the end of the organic shape you’ve woven?

    Not sure if this makes sense but I was totally confused! Thanks in advance!

    • Reply
      Kate
      October 27, 2015 at 2:51 pm

      Hi Brita! I’m so glad you are enjoying my blog. You definitely do not need to worry about the rows lining up when you change threads. Some times it works out and they will line up, but sometimes it just won’t, but don’t worry just keep weaving! When I’m weaving I like to make my important shapes first and then fill in the other colors after. That way I know my shapes will get made how I intend them. It also is easier to worry just about the shape I want, and then I don’t have to worry about the rest of it, I just weave in the gaps. So for this weave I started from the middle and wove out, meaning I wove the yellow color first and then worked my way out. I didn’t worry about rows lining up and when I felt my threads were creating gaps I did some interlocking rows (tutorial here: http://www.theweavingloom.com/how-to-eliminate-gaps-when-weaving/ ) with my weft thread that I was working on. After I had my whole shape created, I filled in the outer color. I hope that helps answer your question. If you have more questions on this let me know.

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